Tuesday, February 25, 2020

Egypt, Kom Ombo temple

Kom Ombo translates to hill of gold, and the late afternoon light bathing the temple remains proved the name was apropos. We began our tour in the late afternoon and enjoyed a lovely sunset over the Nile with several river boats docked there in the background.




This Greco-Roman temple was dedicated to the falcon god Horus and crocodile god Sobek. The layout combines two temples, constructed side-by-side. Each had its own gateways and chapels. Unfortunately, it was only the priests that got to enjoy the bulk of the imagery of etchings and hieroglyphics. The hoi polloi were not allowed into most parts of the temple. But even if they were, they were illiterate and unable to read the hieroglyphic writings all over the walls. This reminded me of the peasants in Europe when the great cathedrals were being built. Mass was conducted in Latin, which they didn't understand. But at least they were all allowed inside to look at the pretty stained glass and iconography that told visual stories from the Bible.




Though exposed to the elements (see pic above and below), you can still see bits of the original paint that's over 2000 yrs old. 



Captive crocodiles were kept in the temple. Back when the temple was constructed during the Ptolemaic period (a couple centuries before Christ), crocodiles were present throughout the Nile since there was no dam in place to keep them contained. Crocodiles were also mummified onsite and there was a cemetery for them. Adjacent to the temple is a little museum that houses the mummified crocs uncovered during archaeological digs. 




I found this explanatory sign, in both English and Arabic. If you look in the upper left hand corner, you'll see the USA helped fund this historical/archaeological site.


Ahmed, our Egyptologist extraordinaire, used several folks in our tour group to act out one of the scenes portrayed on the temple wall. 





In the scene above, the pharaoh is making an offering (seen on the tray turned sideways so the viewer can tell what it is) to the crocodile god Sobek.



I can't remember the significance of the two pics above, but it's EARily intriguing. In the pic below, I do recall the story. It seems this was a "fundraiser" wall near the front columned section of the temple. Priests would lead locals coming to worship into this area. You'll see greater detail in the pic below, where each faceless and one-armed silhouette represents a defeated army. The one arm with a loop at the elbow area means that the defeated peoples have been tied up. Beneath each silhouette in the cartouche that looks as if it's surrounded by something like barbs is the name of the enemy they defeated. The pilgrims/worshippers paid money to pound the face of the enemy with a club to help support the temple and its priests. It went to keep the crocodile in captivity, an earthly incarnation of Sobek, in good eats until it died and was mummified. 



I found it sad to realize that oftentimes years/decades of work and amazing craftsmanship were poured into these temples and yet so few were able to see and appreciate it all back in the day. I take heart that folks now come from all over the globe to see the majesty of ancient Egypt and pay fees to support ongoing discovery, reconstruction and preservation.

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